Club Hammers

About Club Hammers

Club hammers, frequently referred to as lump hammers, are robust striking tools engineered for demolition work, masonry projects, and driving cold chisels through brick, concrete and stone. Distinguished by their double-faced forged steel heads and compact handles, these hammers bridge the gap between standard claw hammers and full-sized sledgehammers. With head weights typically ranging from 1kg to 2.7kg (approximately 2lbs to 6lbs), club hammers deliver substantial striking force whilst maintaining excellent control—making them indispensable for breaking concrete blocks, splitting bricks, and driving masonry nails with precision.

The selection at Tooled-Up.com encompasses traditional wooden-handled club hammers alongside modern fibreglass-handled alternatives that offer enhanced vibration dampening and exceptional durability. With 23 different models available from respected manufacturers including Draper, Estwing, Faithfull, Roughneck, Milwaukee, Stanley and DeWalt, tradespeople and DIY enthusiasts can select from entry-level options through to premium professional-grade tools. Models like the Estwing SureStrike Drilling Hammer and Roughneck Gorilla Club Hammer represent advanced engineering, whilst traditional designs from Faithfull and Draper provide reliable performance at accessible price points.

Contemporary club hammer designs incorporate sophisticated features such as shock-absorbing handles to reduce user fatigue during prolonged use, drop-forged steel heads for superior durability, and ergonomic grip patterns for improved control and safety. Premium offerings like the Sealey Real Steel Unbreakable Club Hammer and Milwaukee Fibreglass Handle Club Hammer combine traditional striking power with modern materials science, delivering tools capable of withstanding the rigours of daily professional site work. Whether tackling heavy demolition, precision chisel work, or general construction tasks, these versatile striking tools remain essential equipment across numerous trades.

Jargon Buster

• Drop-Forged Head: A manufacturing process where heated steel is shaped under immense pressure using a drop forge, creating a denser, stronger head with superior grain structure compared to cast alternatives. This method produces more durable striking faces that resist chipping, mushrooming and deformation during heavy use.
• Fibreglass Handle: A modern alternative to traditional wooden handles, fibreglass construction features reinforced strands encased in polyester resin. These handles offer excellent shock absorption, won't rot or splinter, remain secure in all weather conditions, and are virtually unbreakable under normal working conditions.
• Strike Face: The flat, hardened surface at each end of the hammer head designed for making contact with chisels, masonry, or materials being struck. Quality club hammers feature properly heat-treated strike faces with bevelled edges to prevent mushrooming and extend working life.
• Overstrike Protection: A design feature, often a collar or reinforced section where the handle meets the head, that protects the shaft from damage when strikes miss the target and hit the handle instead. This feature is particularly important for fibreglass-handled models and significantly extends tool lifespan.
• Head Weight: The mass of the striking head, typically measured in kilograms or pounds. Club hammers generally range from 1kg to 2.7kg, with heavier heads delivering more striking force but requiring greater control and causing increased user fatigue during extended use.
• Bevelled Edge: A chamfered or angled edge around the striking face that prevents chipping when the hammer makes glancing contact with hard materials. This design feature protects both the hammer and the workpiece whilst maintaining striking effectiveness.

Who Uses Club Hammers?

Club hammers are essential tools across numerous trades and applications:

• Bricklayers and Stonemasons: Splitting bricks, blocks and stone, driving bolsters and cold chisels during cutting operations, and general masonry work
• Demolition Contractors: Breaking up concrete structures, removing tiles and rendering, and dismantling masonry walls
• Construction Workers: General site work including driving steel pins, tent pegs, form stakes, and breaking ground for foundations
• Landscapers and Groundworkers: Installing edging stones, splitting paving slabs, driving stakes into compacted ground, and positioning kerb stones
• Plumbers and Gas Fitters: Chasing out walls for pipework installation using bolster chisels and creating access points in masonry
• Electricians: Creating channels in masonry for cable runs, installing mounting boxes, and forming chases for conduit
• Carpenters and Joiners: Demolition work, driving large timber connectors, installing frame anchors, and removing existing structures
• DIY Enthusiasts: Home improvement projects involving masonry work, patio installation, garden features, and general demolition tasks
• Fencing Contractors: Driving fence posts into difficult ground, breaking through hard substrates, and general groundwork preparation
• Roofers: Removing tiles, cutting slate with chisels, and dismantling existing roof structures

How to Choose the Right Club Hammers

Head Weight Considerations: Select the appropriate head weight based on your primary application and physical capability. A 1kg to 1.1kg hammer suits lighter chisel work, precision tasks, and reduces fatigue during all-day use—ideal for electricians and plumbers undertaking detailed work. Mid-weight 1.8kg to 2kg models offer the best balance for general construction work, providing substantial striking force with manageable control. Heavier 2.5kg to 2.7kg hammers deliver maximum impact for demolition work but require greater effort to control accurately and can cause increased user fatigue.

Handle Material Selection: Traditional wooden handles, typically crafted from ash or hickory, provide excellent shock absorption and a familiar feel at economical price points. They're easily replaced when damaged, making them suitable for budget-conscious users. Fibreglass handles, as featured in models from Estwing, Milwaukee, and Draper Expert ranges, offer superior durability, won't loosen from the head, and excel in wet or variable weather conditions. For professional tradespeople requiring reliable daily performance, fibreglass-handled options represent better long-term value despite higher initial costs.

Handle Length and Design: Standard club hammers feature handles around 280-320mm long, providing optimal balance between control and striking power. Longer-handled versions, such as the Faithfull Long Handle Club Hammer, deliver increased leverage and striking force—useful for demolition work where maximum impact is required, though they sacrifice some precision. Shorter handles offer superior control for detailed chisel work. Look for soft-feel or textured grips that remain secure when wearing gloves or working in dusty conditions.

Brand and Build Quality: Tooled-Up stocks club hammers from reputable manufacturers including Estwing, Milwaukee, DeWalt, Stanley, Roughneck, and Faithfull—brands known for professional-grade construction. Premium hammers feature properly heat-treated heads that resist mushrooming, secure head-to-handle connections using advanced bonding or wedging systems, and ergonomic grips designed to reduce hand strain. Whilst budget options from brands like Blue Spot suit occasional DIY use, professional tradespeople should invest in mid-range to premium models that withstand daily site demands.

Strike Face Quality: Examine the striking faces carefully—both should be properly hardened, ground flat, and feature bevelled edges to prevent chipping. Some specialist models incorporate slightly crowned faces for concentrated striking force when driving chisels, whilst others have perfectly flat faces for broader impact distribution. Check that the head is securely fixed to the handle with appropriate steel wedges, epoxy bonding, or the continuous construction found in one-piece fibreglass designs.

Popular Accessories

• Cold Chisels and Bolster Chisels: Essential companions available in various widths from 19mm to 100mm for cutting brick, block, concrete and stone—properly hardened for hammer striking
• Point and Flat Chisels: Specialist chisels for breaking up concrete surfaces, removing tile adhesive, and detailed masonry work
• Masonry Nails and Pins: Hardened steel fasteners driven with club hammers for fixing into concrete, brick and blockwork
• Safety Goggles and Face Shields: Critical personal protective equipment meeting BS EN 166 standards to protect against flying chips and fragments
• Anti-Vibration Work Gloves: Impact-resistant gloves that reduce hand fatigue, provide blister protection, and improve grip security
• Tool Belts and Hammer Holders: Convenient carrying solutions including leather loops and reinforced holders for easy site access
• Replacement Wooden Handles: Spare handles for traditional club hammers to extend tool life when shafts become damaged
• Chisel Guards and Mushroom Caps: Protective guards that prevent hand injury from mushroomed chisel heads during striking
• Tool Lanyards: Safety tethers for working at height, preventing dropped tools and compliance with site safety regulations
• Brick Jointers and Pointing Tools: Complementary tools used alongside club hammers during bricklaying operations

Safety Information

Personal Protective Equipment: Always wear appropriate eye protection—safety goggles or a face shield meeting BS EN 166 standards—when striking chisels or masonry, as chips and fragments can cause serious eye injuries. The HSE recommends impact-resistant eyewear for all striking operations. Wear sturdy work gloves to protect hands from blisters, improve grip security, and provide vibration dampening. Steel toe-capped boots meeting safety standards are essential on construction sites where heavy hammers and materials pose crush hazards. Consider hearing protection during prolonged striking operations, particularly when working with chisels on hard materials.

Tool Inspection Procedures: Before each use, thoroughly inspect the hammer head for cracks, chips, or mushrooming of the striking face—any deformation creates dangerous sharp edges that can break off during use. Check that the head is securely fixed to the handle with no looseness by attempting to twist the head. Wooden handles should be examined for splits, cracks, splintering, or signs of deterioration—replace damaged handles immediately as they can break during use, causing complete loss of control. Fibreglass handles should show no signs of cracking, delamination, or damage to the protective coating.

Proper Striking Technique: Maintain a firm grip appropriate to the hammer weight, keeping fingers away from the striking zone. Stand in a stable, balanced position with feet shoulder-width apart and clear line of sight to the target. Focus on the work surface, not the hammer head, and use smooth, controlled swings rather than wild, off-balance strikes. Allow the hammer's weight and momentum to do the work—excessive force increases fatigue and reduces accuracy. When driving chisels, ensure they're held securely at the correct angle, and never strike hardened steel surfaces directly with the hammer face.

Work Area Safety Protocols: Ensure bystanders maintain a safe distance from striking operations—at least three metres in all directions to account for flying debris. Be aware of what lies behind or beneath your work surface—striking through materials into hidden services or structures can cause damage or serious injury. When working at height, secure the hammer with a tool lanyard to prevent drops that could injure personnel below. Never use a club hammer with a damaged or loose head, as it may detach during use and cause serious injury. Establish a clear work zone, particularly on busy construction sites.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a club hammer and a lump hammer?
These terms are completely interchangeable—both refer to the same tool. "Club hammer" is more commonly used in professional trade contexts and technical specifications, whilst "lump hammer" is often heard in DIY settings and amongst general builders. Both describe a short-handled, double-faced striking hammer designed for heavy-duty work with chisels and demolition tasks. The terminology preference is largely regional within the UK, with no functional difference between products labelled with either name.

What weight club hammer should I buy for general use?
For versatile general-purpose work including driving chisels, light demolition, and masonry tasks, a 1.8kg to 2kg (4lb) hammer offers the optimal balance of striking power and user control. Lighter 1kg to 1.1kg models suit precision work, reduce fatigue during extended use, and are ideal for detailed chisel work in electrical or plumbing applications. Heavier 2.5kg to 2.7kg hammers provide maximum impact force for demolition work but require greater physical effort to control accurately and can cause increased user fatigue. Consider your physical strength, stamina, and intended primary application when selecting weight.

Are fibreglass handles genuinely better than wooden handles?
Fibreglass handles offer significant advantages for professional daily use: superior durability, complete weather resistance, elimination of head loosening, and maintenance-free operation. They won't rot, split, or require periodic tightening like wooden handles. However, wooden handles provide excellent natural shock absorption, a traditional feel preferred by some tradespeople, and are more economical to replace when damaged. For professional tradespeople undertaking daily site work, fibreglass models from Estwing, Milwaukee, or Draper Expert ranges represent better long-term value. For occasional DIY use or budget-conscious buyers, quality wooden-handled hammers from Faithfull or Stanley offer reliable performance at lower initial cost.

How do I prevent mushrooming on my club hammer?
Mushrooming occurs when the striking face deforms through repeated impacts, creating dangerous sharp edges that can fragment and cause injury. Prevent this by choosing quality hammers with properly heat-treated heads from reputable manufacturers stocked at Tooled-Up.com. Avoid striking hardened steel surfaces directly, and never use the hammer as a makeshift anvil or striking surface. Always strike squarely with the flat face rather than glancing blows with the edge. If mushrooming does occur, carefully grind the edges back to the original profile using appropriate metalworking equipment and safety procedures, or replace the hammer if deformation is severe. Regular inspection helps identify early mushrooming before it becomes dangerous.

Can I use my club hammer with power tool accessories like SDS chisel bits?
Absolutely not—never strike SDS bits, drill chisels, or any power tool accessories with a club hammer or any hand-striking tool. SDS chisels are designed exclusively for use with rotary hammers and combi drills equipped with SDS chuck systems that deliver controlled pneumatic striking force. Hand-striking these accessories can shatter the hardened steel, creating dangerous high-velocity fragments, damage both the bit and hammer, void all warranties, and cause serious injury. For hand-striking operations, always use proper cold chisels, bolster chisels, and point chisels specifically manufactured and heat-treated for manual hammer use.