Compass Saws

About Compass Saws

Compass saws are versatile cutting tools designed for making curved and intricate cuts in wood, plastic, and soft materials. Characterised by their narrow, tapered blades and pointed tips, these hand saws excel at tasks where precision manoeuvring is essential. Unlike frame-bound alternatives such as coping saws or fret saws, compass saws offer unrestricted cutting freedom, making them ideal for creating interior cutouts, curved profiles, and detailed work in the centre of larger boards where framed saws cannot reach.

The defining feature of a compass saw is its sharpened point, which enables users to plunge the blade directly into materials without requiring a pilot hole—particularly useful when cutting openings in plasterboard, laminates, or thin wooden panels. At TooledUp.com, we stock professional-grade compass saws from trusted brands including Bahco and Stanley, with models ranging from traditional single-purpose designs to versatile 3-in-1 systems. Whether you're a carpenter cutting curves for decorative woodwork or a kitchen fitter creating worktop cutouts, our range offers reliable solutions for trades and DIY enthusiasts alike.

Modern compass saws combine aggressive cutting action with surprising control, bridging the gap between the delicate precision of fret saws and the rapid material removal of jigsaws. The absence of a rigid frame means you can work at any angle and access confined spaces that would be impossible with other cutting tools, making them an invaluable addition to any tradesperson's toolkit for site work and workshop projects.

Jargon Buster

• TPI (Teeth Per Inch): The number of teeth along one inch of the blade. Lower TPI values (5-7) provide faster, coarser cuts for rough work, while higher TPI counts (10+) deliver finer, smoother cuts for detailed joinery. Most compass saws feature 7-10 TPI for balanced performance.
• Keyhole Saw: An alternative name for compass saws, particularly in American terminology, referring to their historical use in cutting keyholes and small apertures in doors and furniture.
• Plunge Cut: The technique of piercing directly into material using the pointed tip of the saw, eliminating the need for pre-drilled starter holes—especially useful for cutting openings in plasterboard or thin panels.
• Set: The angle at which saw teeth are bent alternately left and right from the blade centre. Proper set prevents binding and allows the blade to move freely through the cut, essential for curved cutting paths.
• Blade Taper: The narrowing of the blade from handle to tip, which reduces friction and allows tighter radius curves to be cut without the blade binding or jamming in the kerf.
• Rigid vs Flexible Blades: Rigid blades offer greater control for straight and gentle curves, whilst more flexible blades can navigate tighter radii but require steadier hand control to maintain accuracy.

Who Uses Compass Saws?

Compass saws are essential tools across numerous trades and applications:

• Carpenters and Joiners: Creating curved profiles, cutting decorative mouldings, and making interior cutouts in wooden components
• Kitchen Fitters: Cutting sink and hob apertures in worktops, particularly for quick on-site adjustments
• Shopfitters: Installing display fixtures and creating custom cutouts in display boards and panelling
• Electricians: Cutting access holes in wooden joists and panels for cable routing
• Plumbers: Making pipe access holes through wooden floors, panels, and boxing
• Set Designers and Theatrical Carpenters: Creating intricate set pieces and decorative profiles in stage construction
• DIY Enthusiasts: Home improvement projects requiring curved cuts or interior openings without power tools
• Restoration Specialists: Working on period properties where traditional hand tool methods are preferred
• Model Makers: Cutting curves and patterns in thicker materials than craft knives can handle

How to Choose the Right Compass Saws

Selecting the appropriate compass saw depends on your specific cutting requirements and working conditions:

Blade Length and Flexibility: Standard compass saws feature blades between 250-350mm long. Longer blades suit deeper materials and faster cutting, whilst shorter blades offer greater control for detailed work. Consider whether you need a rigid blade for controlled straight work or a more flexible blade for tight curves.

Teeth Per Inch (TPI): Match the TPI to your material and finish requirements. For rough carpentry and rapid stock removal, choose 6-8 TPI. For cleaner cuts in furniture-grade timber or plastic laminates, opt for 10-12 TPI. Many professional tradespeople keep both options available for different applications.

Handle Design: Comfort matters during extended use. Bahco's ergonomic handles provide excellent grip and reduce hand fatigue, whilst Stanley's designs often feature rubberised grips for secure handling. Some models like the Stanley 3-in-1 offer interchangeable handles that accept multiple blade types, providing exceptional versatility.

Material Compatibility: Ensure your chosen saw suits your primary materials. Models specifically designed for wood and plastic, such as the Bahco ProfCut range, feature tooth geometry optimised for these materials. Universal saws offer broader capability but may not excel in specialist applications.

Brand Quality: Professional brands like Bahco and Stanley offer superior blade steel that maintains sharpness longer and resists bending. Hardpoint teeth on premium models stay sharper throughout their working life, though they cannot be resharpened. For site work demanding durability, the Stanley FatMax range provides enhanced robustness.

Budget Considerations: Basic compass saws represent an affordable investment for occasional use, whilst professional models with replaceable blades and ergonomic features justify their higher cost through longevity and comfort during daily use.

Popular Accessories

• Replacement Blades: Keep spare blades on hand for different materials and TPI requirements, particularly if you've chosen a multi-purpose handle system
• Blade Guards: Protective covers for safe storage and transport, preventing injury and protecting cutting edges
• Marking Tools: Pencils, chalk lines, and scribers for accurately marking cutting lines, especially important for curved work
• Combination Squares and Compasses: Layout tools for creating accurate curves and radii before cutting
• Clamps and Workbenches: Secure workholding prevents material movement during cutting, improving accuracy and safety
• Sandpaper and Files: For smoothing cut edges after compass saw work, particularly on curves
• Tool Rolls and Storage: Organised storage solutions from Stanley FatMax and other brands to protect your saws during transport
• Safety Glasses: Eye protection from sawdust and debris, essential for all cutting operations

Safety Information

Whilst compass saws are relatively safe hand tools, proper practices ensure injury-free operation:

Personal Protective Equipment: Always wear safety glasses to protect against flying sawdust and debris. Work gloves can protect your non-cutting hand when steadying materials, though ensure they don't compromise grip on the saw handle.

Secure Workpieces: Always clamp or firmly secure materials before cutting. Hand-held workpieces can slip, causing the blade to bind or the saw to jump, potentially resulting in injury. Use proper workbenches or sawhorses to position work at comfortable heights.

Sharp Point Awareness: The pointed tip that makes compass saws versatile also creates a puncture hazard. Always store saws with blade guards fitted, and be mindful of the tip when withdrawing the saw from completed cuts.

Controlled Cutting: Use steady, controlled strokes rather than forcing the blade. Excessive pressure can cause the blade to bend, bind, or break. Let the teeth do the work, particularly when making plunge cuts.

Body Position: Keep your free hand and body clear of the cutting line. Never position yourself where the saw might contact you if it slips or breaks through the material unexpectedly.

Blade Condition: Inspect blades before use for damage, bent teeth, or excessive wear. Damaged blades cut unpredictably and should be replaced immediately. Blunt blades require excessive force and increase accident risk.

For site work guidance, consult HSE recommendations on hand tool use and maintain awareness of your working environment to prevent trips and collisions whilst focused on cutting operations.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a compass saw and a jab saw?

Whilst both feature pointed tips for plunge cutting, compass saws have longer, finer blades designed for cleaner, more controlled cuts in wood and plastic. Jab saws typically have shorter, more aggressive teeth optimised specifically for plasterboard and drywall, producing coarser cuts. Compass saws offer greater versatility for curved work and detailed carpentry.

Can I cut curves as tight as a coping saw with a compass saw?

Compass saws cannot match the extremely tight radii achievable with coping saws due to their wider blades. However, they cut considerably faster and can work anywhere on a board without frame restrictions. For moderate curves and situations requiring interior cutouts, compass saws prove more practical despite producing slightly coarser finishes.

How do I start a plunge cut with a compass saw?

Position the pointed tip at your desired starting point, holding the saw at approximately 30-45 degrees to the material surface. Apply firm, controlled pressure whilst using short, gentle strokes to work the point through. Once the blade penetrates sufficiently, gradually lower the saw to horizontal and continue with normal cutting strokes. Practice on scrap material to develop confidence with this technique.

Do compass saw blades need sharpening or replacing?

Most modern compass saws feature hardpoint teeth that stay sharper longer than traditional teeth but cannot be resharpened. When cutting performance deteriorates, replace the entire blade. Some premium models offer replaceable blades that make this economical. Traditional non-hardpoint blades can be professionally sharpened, though replacement often proves more cost-effective for tradespeople.

Which TPI should I choose for kitchen worktop cutouts?

For laminate or solid wood worktops, choose 10-12 TPI for cleaner edges requiring less finishing work. The finer teeth reduce chipping on laminate surfaces. However, if speed matters more than finish quality—perhaps for areas that will be concealed by sinks or hobs—8 TPI offers a good balance between cutting speed and acceptable finish. Always cut from the decorative face where possible to minimise visible tear-out.