Tenon Saws

About Tenon Saws

The tenon saw is a quintessential woodworking hand tool, instantly recognisable by its distinctive brass or steel stiffening rib that runs along the top edge of the blade. This reinforcing spine prevents the blade from flexing during use, enabling precise, straight cuts in a variety of woodworking applications. Originally designed for cutting tenons in mortice and tenon joinery, these versatile saws have become indispensable for any woodworker requiring accuracy and control. The fine-toothed blade, typically ranging from 10 to 15 TPI (teeth per inch), produces clean, smooth cuts with minimal tear-out, making tenon saws ideal for detailed carpentry work, furniture making, and precision joinery.

Tooled-Up.com stocks tenon saws from trusted manufacturers including Bahco, Stanley, Draper, and Roughneck, offering options for both professional tradespeople and dedicated DIY enthusiasts. Most tenon saws feature blade lengths around 300mm (12 inches), though sizes can vary depending on the intended application. Modern tenon saws often incorporate hardpoint teeth that maintain their sharpness far longer than traditional teeth, eliminating the need for frequent sharpening. Many woodworkers use tenon saws in conjunction with a mitre box or mitre block to achieve perfect 90° and 45° angles for precise corner joints, picture framing, and trim work.

Whether you're crafting traditional joinery, building bespoke furniture, or undertaking restoration work, a quality tenon saw delivers the accuracy and clean cutting performance that power tools simply cannot match for detailed work. The controlled, methodical cutting action allows craftspeople to work with confidence on valuable materials, whilst the rigid blade prevents the wandering and binding that can occur with longer, unsupported saw blades.

Jargon Buster

• TPI (Teeth Per Inch): The number of teeth per inch of blade length. Higher TPI values (13-15) produce finer, smoother cuts but work more slowly, whilst lower TPI counts (10-11) cut faster but leave a slightly coarser finish.
• Back or Spine: The reinforcing strip of brass or steel folded over the top edge of the blade. This rigid spine prevents the thin blade from buckling and ensures straight, accurate cuts.
• Hardpoint Teeth: Teeth that have been heat-treated or induction-hardened to increase durability and edge retention. Hardpoint saws stay sharp considerably longer than traditional saws but cannot be resharpened once dulled.
• Set: The slight outward bend given to alternating teeth, creating a cut (kerf) slightly wider than the blade thickness. This prevents the blade from binding in the cut and allows sawdust to escape.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the saw blade. A narrower kerf removes less material and requires less effort, whilst producing less waste.
• Crosscut Teeth: Tooth geometry designed specifically for cutting across the wood grain, featuring knife-like points that sever fibres cleanly rather than tearing them.

Who Uses Tenon Saws?

• Carpenters and Joiners: For cutting precise joints, trimming door casings, and detailed finish work where accuracy is paramount
• Cabinet Makers: Essential for fine furniture construction, dovetail cutting, and precision joinery work
• Restoration Specialists: When working on period properties and antique furniture where traditional hand-tool techniques are required
• Picture Framers: For cutting accurate mitres on moulding, typically used with a mitre box for consistent 45° angles
• Luthiers and Instrument Makers: Requiring exceptional precision when working with valuable tonewoods
• Set Designers and Prop Makers: For accurate cutting of scenic elements and detailed construction work
• DIY Enthusiasts: Home improvers undertaking joinery projects, skirting board installation, and general woodworking tasks
• Woodwork Teachers and Students: Learning fundamental sawing techniques and traditional joinery methods

How to Choose the Right Tenon Saw

Blade Length: Most tenon saws measure approximately 300mm (12 inches), which suits the majority of applications. Consider the maximum width of material you'll typically cut – the blade should extend beyond this to allow a full stroke. Shorter blades offer greater control for very fine work, whilst longer blades are more efficient for wider stock.

Teeth Per Inch (TPI): This determines your cutting speed and finish quality. A 10-11 TPI saw cuts relatively quickly and suits general carpentry work. For finer joinery and finish work, choose 13-15 TPI. The selection available at Tooled-Up includes various TPI configurations to match different applications, from the Bahco 244 Fine Cut at 13 TPI to more aggressive cutting options.

Hardpoint vs Traditional Teeth: Hardpoint saws maintain sharpness far longer and are ideal for site work and general use where convenience matters. Traditional teeth can be resharpened by a specialist, making them preferable for craftspeople who value long-term tool maintenance and optimal performance.

Handle Design: A comfortable, well-balanced handle reduces fatigue during extended use. Traditional closed handles provide excellent control, whilst some modern designs feature ergonomic grips with soft-touch materials. Try the grip if possible to ensure it suits your hand size and working style.

Back Material: Brass backs are traditional and add pleasant weight for controlled cutting, though they're more expensive. Steel backs offer similar rigidity at lower cost and are perfectly adequate for professional use. The Footprint 256 Brass Back Tenon Saw represents the traditional approach, whilst many modern saws use steel construction.

Brand and Quality: Established manufacturers like Bahco, Stanley, and Draper have refined their designs over decades. Their saws feature properly set teeth, well-fitted backs, and comfortable handles. Budget options may save money initially but often compromise on blade quality and longevity.

Popular Accessories

• Mitre Boxes and Blocks: Essential accessories for cutting accurate angles. Available as simple wooden blocks or sophisticated clamping systems like the Stanley Clamping Mitre Box
• Bench Hooks: Provide a stable cutting platform and protect your workbench surface whilst sawing
• Marking and Measuring Tools: Combination squares, marking gauges, and marking knives for accurate layout before cutting
• Saw Files and Sharpening Equipment: For maintaining traditional non-hardpoint saws (not applicable to hardpoint varieties)
• Workbenches and Vices: Secure workholding is essential for accurate, safe sawing
• Tool Storage: Saw tills, tool rolls, or dedicated toolboxes protect the delicate teeth from damage during transport and storage
• Japanese Dozuki Saws: Complementary pull-saws for even finer work and different cutting characteristics

Safety Information

Personal Protective Equipment: Always wear safety glasses or goggles to protect against sawdust and potential debris. Consider dust masks when working with certain hardwoods or treated timber, particularly in enclosed spaces.

Workpiece Security: Ensure your workpiece is firmly secured in a vice or against a bench hook before cutting. Never attempt to hold small pieces by hand whilst sawing – this is a common cause of injuries.

Blade Awareness: Though tenon saws are relatively safe hand tools, their fine teeth remain sharp. Store saws with blade guards or in protective sleeves when not in use. When carrying a tenon saw, hold it by the handle with the blade pointing downward.

Body Position: Position yourself so that if the saw slips, it moves away from your body rather than toward it. Keep your non-working hand well clear of the cutting line.

Sharp Tools are Safer: Maintain hardpoint saws by keeping teeth clean and free from resin build-up. A sharp saw requires less force and provides better control, reducing the likelihood of slips and accidents.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a tenon saw and a dovetail saw?
Both feature a reinforcing back, but tenon saws are larger (typically 250-350mm) with coarser teeth (10-14 TPI), making them suitable for general joinery work. Dovetail saws are smaller (150-250mm) with finer teeth (15-22 TPI) for delicate joinery and cutting dovetails. Tenon saws are more versatile for everyday carpentry tasks.

Can hardpoint tenon saws be resharpened?
No, hardpoint teeth have been heat-treated to extreme hardness, making them impossible to file or sharpen using conventional methods. However, they maintain their sharpness considerably longer than traditional teeth – often lasting years in regular use. When they eventually dull, the saw must be replaced, but the extended lifespan usually justifies the cost.

Do I need a mitre box to use a tenon saw effectively?
Not necessarily, though a mitre box greatly simplifies cutting accurate 45° and 90° angles, particularly for beginners. Experienced woodworkers can cut accurate angles freehand by following careful marking-out. For repetitive angled cuts such as picture framing or skirting boards, a mitre box ensures consistency and saves considerable time.

What blade length is best for general woodworking?
A 300mm (12-inch) blade represents the sweet spot for most applications, offering sufficient length to cut common timber widths whilst remaining manageable and controllable. This size handles skirting boards, architraves, and most joinery tasks comfortably. Consider a longer saw only if you regularly work with unusually wide stock.

How do I maintain my tenon saw?
Keep the blade clean and dry to prevent rust – wipe with an oily cloth after use if working in damp conditions. Remove resin and pitch build-up with white spirit or specialist blade cleaner. Store saws in a dry environment, ideally with blade protection. For traditional (non-hardpoint) saws, periodic professional sharpening maintains optimal performance. Check that the back remains firmly seated on the blade – any looseness affects cutting accuracy.